So I am not a huge fan of binding a quilt in the first place. That’s because “I’m almost done! …and now I have yet to do this last step.”

One of the things I used to really dislike about binding was trying to create an infinity binding to close it. I struggled with getting the end lengths just right and how to position the fabric to make sure it turned correctly. It kind of drove me batty.

But then I discovered this tucking technique to close the binding. And I’ve never looked back. Seriously.

If you are submitting a quilt to be judged, this technique may not pass the test. Otherwise, this technique is easy and looks just as good, especially, as with everything else in the quilting world, if you take your time with it.

Hopefully I have written these directions in a simple and clear way so that anyone of any level can understand them!

Introduction:

Measure the perimeter of your quilt.

To this number, add 6” to 8” more of “leeway” fabric.

For example, if the perimeter of your quilt is 60”, add another 6” (or 8”, if you prefer) for a total of 66” (or 68”) of binding strip length that you will need.
- You won’t need all of it, but it is better to have a small excess of fabric than too little in this case. You will cut off the extra amount in a later step.

Step 1:

The goal is to prepare one end of your binding strip to make the final step of the entire process as easy as possible.

This step has several parts to it as I have tried to be very clear about my process.

Step 1A:

Cut your binding strip - or strips - at 2.5” (2 1/2”) wide

Step 1B:

Once you have your whole binding strip ready and has been cut to 2.5” (2 1/2”), fold it in half along the long axis so that the new width is now 1.25” (1 1/4”).

Using my example from above, fold down the middle of all 66”.

Use your iron on an appropriate fabric heat setting to help form a crease down that folded line.

Step 1C:

Unfold your binding strip at one end so you can see the crease down the middle.

You do not need to unfold the entire binding strip; just about 6” to 8” of it.

Step 1D:

Fold one end of the binding strip to form a right triangle.

Use your hot iron to form a crease along the hypotenuse.

Step 1E:

Mark a line 1/2” out from the hypotenuse crease you made in step 1D.

In the image, I marked where the crease along the binding strip center is (orange, step 1C); where the hypotenuse crease is (blue, step 1D); and where the 1/2” line is (green).

Step 1F:

On a cutting mat, align your ruler along the 1/2” mark on the ruler with the hypotenuse crease (blue line, step 1D).

The edge of the ruler should be aligned with the line 1/2” away from the hypotenuse line (green line, step 1E).

Step 1G:

Using your rotary cutter, trim the binding at the edge of the ruler: the line that is 1/2” away from the hypotenuse line.

Step 1H:

Re-fold the binding along the hypotenuse line (blue line, step 1D).

Use your heated iron to crease the hypotenuse line again.

Now you have created a small flap that is 1/2” wide.

Essentially, what I have done here is to lose some excess bulk that would get in the way in a future step.

Step 1I:

Re-fold the binding strip along the center crease of the strip so the entire strip width is back to 1.25” (1 1/4”).

Use your heated iron to crease the fold again.

Skipping steps 1E - 1H is fine, but it will result in more bulk at the end of the final step. I have found that bulk to be annoying in the least and complicated to work with at the most.

Step 2

The goal in this step is to sew this “pointy” end of the binding strip in order to create a pocket — before sewing the remainder of the binding strip onto the perimeter of your quilt.

This step has several parts to it. Additionally, I have written on the images in order to be more clear about my process.

Step 2A:

To attach the binding to the quilt, start with the “pointy” end that you created in Step 1.

Temporarily pin the starting end of the binding in place.

Step 2B:

Leave approximately 6” between the end of the binding strip and a marker pin.

Notice that there is a flap between the side of the binding that is pinned down and the marker pin. This flap is very important!

Step 2C:

Start stitching the binding down. This is easiest with a 1/4” presser foot.

Begin as close to the “pointy” end as possible but still on the binding. Put in a back stitch or two.

Be sure to sew across the little 1/2” flap you created in Step 1.

Step 2D:

Raise the flap so you are only stitching one layer of the binding down - for now.

This creates the “pocket” you will need for Step 3.

Sew until you get to your marker pin. Then stop.

Step 2E:

Stop stitching at the marker pin.

Raise your presser foot and slide the quilt out from underneath it.

Make note of where the pin is.

Step 2F:

Remove the pin and close the flap down.

Both layers of binding should be closed now.

Slide the quilt with binding back under the presser foot.

Step 2G:

Align the edge of the quilt and binding with your 1/4” mark on your presser foot.

Drop your needle where the marker pin had been, this time through both layers of binding.

Step 2H:

From where you dropped your needle (where the marker pin had been), finish stitching the binding on that edge as you normally would.

As you can see, you have created a “pocket” in the first 6” of your binding. This is very important for the final step.

Continue to sew your binding on the perimeter - UNTIL you make the last turn and get to the side with the “pointy” end of the binding again.

Step 3:

The goal in this step is to tuck the tail end of the binding into the pocket you created in step 2.

To do this, you will need to trim the excess of binding fabric to fit within the pocket up to the stitch where your marking pin had been in step 2.

You want enough binding fabric tucked into the pocket to be stable.

Step 3A:

Once you have stitched the binding down on all three sides, you are ready for the last side. This is the magical moment! No more finagling and negotiating binding ends to make an infinity binding!

Notice the “pocket” you made in step 2. You will be tucking in some - not all - of the remaining binding tail into this pocket.

Step 3B:

In order to determine how much binding tail will to fit in the “pocket” - enough for stability but not more than can fit in the space - make note of where you lifted the marker pin (step 2E) and started stitching through both layers of binding fabric (step 2H).

Step 3C:

I like to lay my remaining tail of binding across the top of the pocket to measure how much excess to trim.

Step 3D:

It doesn’t have to be a precise measurement, so long as it is evenly trimmed and does not pass the stitches that create the pocket boundary. Trim it with a good pair of scissors.

Step 3E:

Open the binding pocket and tuck the binding tail into it.

Step 3F:

Use a tool to gently tuck and even out the binding in the pocket.

The raw edges should be relatively even.

It is best to not have excessive bulk in any part of the pocket. It might take a few passes through, but it is quite easy.

If you need to trim your binding tail a little more, that’s cool. Do that and then repeat steps 3E and 3F.

Step 3G:

Time to stitch down this binding edge.

As you normally would with a more traditional binding closing technique, start at the corner and stitch down the raw edge.

Be sure to stitch right across the pocket flap.

Step 3H:

Stitch this raw edge down past the pocket flap until you get to the spot you had removed the marker pin in step 2G, where you started stitching through both layers of binding fabric.

Put in a couple of backstitches to reinforce the stitching.

So now you can finish stitching the binding on the other side. Whether you hand stitch or machine stitch it doesn’t matter.

Once you have completely finished stitching the binding, you can hand stitch the flap closed with a thread that matches the fabric. This helps it to look like a more traditional infinity binding closure. Sometimes I am really on the ball and can use invisible stitches for this step!

How to Make an Easy Quilt Binding Closure - Tuck Technique